Vranje - Seven Centuries of a Charming Town

Vranje has recently celebrated nine centuries of its rich history and turbulent past. The town is first mentioned in 1093 in the “Aleksiad,” in which the Byzantine princess Anna Komnene wrote about the regions under the rule of her father, Emperor Alexios.

            The town’s proximity to Macedonia and Greece, and its distance from its own country’s capital, makes Vranje and its inhabitants of special interest. The city was once the central meeting point of a number of caravan trails, today it connects Southern with Central Europe by way of Pan-European Corridor X. There is a significant number of tourists over the course of the year, but most come during the summer when they stop to rest in the region’s geographical basins which offer pleasant temperatures along the way to the Greek coast.

            The people of Vranje are most often represented by their music, dance, local cuisine, dialect, kindness, and hospitality. Among the most famous people from Vranje are Borisav Stanković (1876-1927), writer, poet, and playwright, one of the most significant Serbian realists, and Blagoje Popović (1894-1979), archimandrite, canonized as the Venerable Justin Ćelijski, one of Serbia’s greatest saints.

The Vranje basin belongs to the South-Morava dialectical region of the Staroštokavski type. Even thoug alphabet books (bukvari) and readers written in Vuk’s alphabet were arriving during the Ottoman reign, and the children of Vranje had significant teachers of the Serbian language, certain “rules” were nevertheless introduced into the language that still remain. Many speak in a popular, concise manner, which has been heavily simplified and lost in the written tradition.

            At the start of the 20^th century, Vranje was undergoing a significant process of urbanization in order to keep up with other larger towns in Serbia. There is a noticeable European architectural wave which came to Vranje through the involvement of Serbian, as well as foreign, architects and engineers. On the facades of buildings, especially in their ornamentation, we see noticeable allusions and associations with the Neo-renaissance movement, the Neo-baroque movement, Eclecticism, and Art Nouveau.

            Little has been said or written about the town’s families. There are many reasons for this such as the large distinction in social difference between the city and surrounding villages, migrations from these villages into larger cities, political upheavals, and the fact that many of the surrounding residents left for more heavily-populated areas, which led to Vranje’s complete social domination by the inhabitants of its surrounding, rural areas. Today there are about 10% of the so-called “old families” left – natives as opposed to recently settled families. We can see that the trend to leave smaller towns was as relevant in all eras of recent history, as it is today.

            Between the two World Wars, Central European culture reigned in Vranje. Wealthier young women arrived at the Town Kasina, founded in 1919, by coach so that they could flaunt their extravagant toilettes by attending nights of music, matinee performances, balls, and from 1924, regular theatrical performances. There was ballroom dancing, waltzes, as well as the Čoček. The repertoire of music was always carefully selected. There was singing and dancing in the formerly-private salons of sprawling houses, rooms with high ceilings and walls decorated with large mirrors and oil paintings. The people often travelled to the capitals of Europe, everyone for their own reasons, students, both graduate and otherwise, merchants and adventurers, but Vranje was known as the “Little Paris.” Good taste was defined as working towards one’s cultivation, an openness towards modern as well as classical values, and decency. The first singing society was formed in Vranje in 1879 under the name “Predvodnica.” The first orchestra of musicians was formed in 1907. The first film with sound was screened in 1931 in the Hotel “Vranje,” built in 1892. The first play, “Gorski Vijenac,” was staged in 1896 under the direction of Radoje Domanović, at that time a teacher in Vranje’s gymnasium. Altruists and donors were not rare, and the Circle of Serbian Sisters was prominently active at that time with their humanitarianism, cultural development, and enlightenment.

            The urbanization of the town began in the Vranje basin and the web of streets which spontaneously developed there. The first urban plan, “A Plan for the Vranje Basin with Traffic Regulations,” which was adopted in 1883, rationally addressed the partial reconstruction of streets in order to preserve small but significant urban points. The town would go on to gradually develop, without detriment to its streetscapes and buildings. During the drafting process, the examples that were often used were the plans for reconstructing the urban centres of various Austro-Hungarian towns.

            There were about sixty fountains with drinking water, both public and private, which were significant points for socializing. They were areas of spontaneous gatherings, meetings, and places where one could always hear entertaining stories.

            The Vranje square was compact, surrounded by the most important buildings, and intentionally developed as a functional meeting-place. The building placed in its centre was the Vranje region’s City Hall, erected in 1908. It was constructed in the Serbo-byzantine style, according to the plans of architect Prof. Petra Popović. It is one of the few preserved buildings of this style in Serbia, with an interior decorated by ornamental elements characteristic of the Morava region. Due to its monumental value it was inducted into the Register of Cultural Heritage of European Architecture.

            The function of the administrative square has not changed for more than a hundred years. In the 1970s and 80s, private houses were rebuilt with businesses on the street level. However, new buildings were planned which were not related to the square’s history and through which the its form, significance, and frequent gatherings have become lost. Today there are a number of alternative squares in Vranje. One of the most frequented is found in the area outside one of the town’s most significant examples of Oriental-Balkan architecture -  the Haremluk and Selamluk, built in 1765.

            The Selamluk, or Pasha’s residence, now the National Museum, is the central building on the plateau, today the Staniša Stošić Square. The building served as the living quarters of the Pasha and his male attendants, and for a time it was a gymnasium. The women lived in the Haremluk, in its numerous, well-lit rooms with polychromatic ceilings, full of wooden reliefs, and a spacious divanhan in the building’s centre. The rooms were heated with odžaklijas, richly decorated chimneys which were located in the walls of adjacent rooms. The multiple buildings were connected by a wooden bridge or gallery so that the secret lives which were lived out in the Haremluk could be kept hidden even from the surrounding gardens.

            Due to the architectural-urban significance of these two sites, they are of greater importance to the region and have been inducted into the Register of Cultural Monuments.

            The Vranje region’s City Hall, the Haremluk, and Selamluk are the main, dominating figures which make their presence know in the urban layout, they are the genii loci, the guardian spirits of the Vranje. The other significant symbols of the town are the Hamam, the Turkish bath which was constructed at the end of the 17^th century and which Bora Stanković describes in great detail in “Nečistoj Krvi.” The white bridge over the Town River is a symbol of the forbidden and tragic love between the rich Turkish woman, Ajša, and the Serbian shepherd Stojan. It is an eternal inspiration for the town’s painters, and a variation of Shakespeare’s tragedy in the style of old Vranje. Directly beside it is the Krstata Džamija, the Church of Sveta Petka Trnova, on whose grounds a mosque was built during Ottoman rule, and an Orthodox church upon its liberation. The church was built in the 13^th century, is highly frequented, and the water from its font is believed to have healing properties. Saborna Crkva Svete Trojice is the main Orthodox church in Vranje, and it was constructed in the 17^th century.

            Not far from the square, on the south side of the City Park, is the “Bora Stanković” gymnasium, constructed in 1893 in the spirit of European academicism. The Park, with its tennis courts, instated in 1924, is a significant point in my own personal life map since my family home stands across the street. Its uncommonly large, cobble-stoned yard was constructed in the 19^th century. The newer sections of the house were built at the start of the 20^th century and designed by the Russian architect Ivan K. Fomin. The house itself is a typical example of Balkan architecture. The yard had always been shady, with a well and a kapidžik, which is a small wooden gate separating the yard’s two sections. The doksat (porch) was spacious, sunny, and opened out onto the garden. In the early spring, lilacs would grow. A large wall along with the house’s position, deep into the garden, guarded the whole property’s privacy from the street outside. Today, many other, similar houses have faded from existence, such as the house of my great-grandfather Vlajko Srbinac. In the last few decades they have been exchanged for parking space and similar projects. However, these types of houses are architecturally significant in that they represent a complete, authentic ambience which would certainly be interesting for contemporary events due to their cultural and touristic significance.

            The hiking trails which slope northwards from the town centre are very exciting even for experienced mountaineers. One of the less intense routes follows the flow of the City River, arriving at the metoh (monastery estate) of Hilandar, the Monastery of Saint Nicholas, built in the 14^th century. One can stop at a spring of drinkable water along the way, located beside a large, old tree, which then continues to trickle along a steep and narrow path to the medieval city-fortress of Markovo Kale, named after the lore surrounding the city of Marko Kraljević. The fortress was built in the 14^th century and guards the Vranje basin from its perch, 750 metres above the convergence of the Devotinska and Mala Rivers. Furthermore, following the murmuring sounds of waterfalls and rapids, one arrives at Kazanđola, a clear whirlpool surrounded by greenery. These hikes often end at Pržar, a hill on which there is a hotel of the same name. Here, there is also a lookout point that offers a unique view of the Vranje basin and surrounding area. That is the place where I first take guests so that they can already have a singular impression of the area before visiting the Museum-house of Borisav Bora Stanković and other landmarks.

            Concerning the identity of the people of Vranje and the area’s history one can discover much by reading recently discovered historical and rare books, such as a Gospel (Jevanđelje) published in 1827. However, the impressions that this city gives to visitors has changed in the last few years. Although the history, culture, and geography of Vranje reminds us that there is always hope for the return of the city’s splendour. This city can once again become a favourite – for some due to the life it offers, and for others as a beloved place of rest and relaxation.

            The ideal European city is one which is characterized by its tolerance, social diversity, many and various public spaces, a residential involvement in the life of the city, fulfilling cultural contributions, and the integration of its historical and modern architecture. I believe that Vranje has to potential to fulfill all of these thanks to its heritage, and it can certainly begin to develop in the direction of an ideal city. The charm of Vranje will return when we acquaint ourselves with our own identity, and when we begin to apply these values, that we so desire, with emotion and an open heart, as is our very nature.

The Surrounding Area of Vranje

            The surrounding area of Vranje has many significant locations, among which are the Monastery of Prohor of Pčinja, some 30 kilometres from Vranje. The Monastery was founded in the 11^th century, in the Pčinja River valley which has been regarded as one of Serbia’s most exceptional features. In the chapel are found the remains of Saint Prohor, where a miraculous miro (holy oil) flows from a small hole in the wall. The monastery complex has two accomodations of which the “Vranjski Konak” (Vranje Building) was built in the middle of the 19^th century.

            Vranjska Banja on the Banjštica River is about ten kilometres from the city. It affords a great opportunity for involvement in today’s popular spa resort tourism, and it is also a healing spring with the hottest mineral water in Europe, from 96° C-110° C. The various benefits offered by these natural resources and the architectural potential of this location are laid out in detail in the Vranjska Banja Plan for General Regulations. This document was established in 2013 and details the longlasting development of the resort, and the regulations for its organization and construction.

            Besna Kobila, with a peak of 1922 metres is found four kilometres from Vranje. It has the potential to develop into a larger skiing centre. During the spring and summer the pastures are covered in indigenous, medicinal plants which one can get to by way of the “Heavenly path” – a trail which is elevated at 1800 metres, perfect for long hikes and mountain biking.

Music

            According to the composer Stevan Mokranjac, our nation’s musical talent is at its most developed in Vranje and the surrounding area. The city song of Vranje has even entered international awareness since it is a part of the Republic of Serbia’s National Registry of Non-Material Cultural Heritage. The songs of Vranje are lyrical, slow, sorrowful, they are sung quietly and with dignity, and rouse strong emotions in the listener. What characterizes them is that they originate in such famous surroundings, and they describing concrete, historical figures and events from the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. They often deal with themes of extraordinary sorrow, extraordinary joy, and inner, clandestine emotions. Some famous songs are Magla padnala, Belo lenče, Petlovi pojev, Dimitrijo, sine Mitre, and many others. The writer, Dragutin Ilić, brother of the poet Vojislav Ilić, wrote the songs Stojanke bela Vranjanke and Šano dušo.

            The dancers of Vranje dance calmly, at an even pace, with a restrained temperament, to the beat of the tambourine or daf, and accompanied by brass or string musicians. The Vranjski čoček is fast paced and danced to a specific rhythm formed by the clanging of the tambourine, and the sound of the trumpet and goč (davul). Renowned musicologists and musicians from around the world often visit Vranje, listening to the brass orchestras they acquaint themselves with the customs, the way of life, and get an authentic picture of Roma quarter – known as Gornja Čaršija, where there is a monument to Bakija Bakić, the unsurpassed trumpet player and idol of all contemporary trumpeters. The tradition of classical and choral music is maintained in the “Stevan Mokranjac” music school as well, once one of the best schools in Serbia in terms if its choral achievements, excellent professors, and numerous talented students.

            In every generation there are young people who are in step with the times and the relevant culture. There are thus various festivals such as the International Children’s Animated Film Workshop, “Zlatni Puž,” organized by the School of Animated Films, “Borini pozorišni dani,” “Dani Vranja,” “Svetosavska nedelja,” “Maj mesec muzike,” organized by the “Stevan Mokranjac” music school, “Dokument,” a documentary film festival, the “Slobodna zona u Vranju” film festival, and “Arhijenale.” Today, Vranje also boasts several subcultural groups of young people who work in the areas of music, film, and the other arts.

            The many taverns offer excellent meals, and samsa, a pastry drizzled with yogurt and garlic, which is an authentic dish unique to Vranje.